IndustryStaal: New Fabrics 2008-2009

Technology

Remarkable advancements in textile technology have altered or diminished the authority of traditional construction techniques. Thermoplastic fibers used heat instead of labor-intensive hand-pleating techniques to create pleats, gathers, and tucks, and thus encouraged a radical expansion of the vocabulary of form and the design of the garment as a whole.

Some designers explored new approaches to traditional methods of construction, reinterpreting time-honored techniques such as lace making. By featuring synthetic ornamentation, by combining incongruous materials, such as velvet and plastic, or by integrating traditional materials and practices with innovative ideas, designers assaulted conventional notions of luxury and elegance. The dictates of what was “suitable” or “appropriate” were sabotaged.

New textiles for fashion and interiors include three-dimensional structures designed by computer with sculpted surfaces that replace the traditional techniques of embroidery and beading. Topographical surfaces are achieved with such processes as chemical blistering, spatters and laminates of metallic particles, heat molding and treating, and various complex novelty weaves. With rapidly evolving technology, the potential for textile development will continue to change the look and perception of fashion.

donderdag 22 mei 2008

New Fabrics 2008-2009

Een aantal close ups van nieuw ontwikkelde stoffen met mooie structuren en effecten.

Tanneries Haas

Fresh and original, the grey and white chequered calfskin from the Tanneries Haas seduces with its delicate contours and subtle curves.

Used for bags or shoes, it goes marvellously with the grey textiles that look set to last well into the summer of 2009.

www.tanneries-haas.com

Officina delle Pelli

Covered with an extremely fine layer of white coating which in no way detracts from its suppleness, this beautiful lambskin from Officina delle Pelli is adorned with elegant black and white graphics by means of surface lacerations, which allow the black of its underside to show through.

The black lines embedded in the skin in this way criss-cross in an irregular pattern, creating a motif that forms one body with the material.

www.officinadellepelli.it

Gruppo Dani

The quilted effect on cowhide from Gruppo Dani is particularly successful, even though there is no padding on the inside.

Even the stitching seems real.

It's supple and sumptuous, and also soft and smooth to the touch, but thick and resistant enough to make it an ideal material for manufacturing fine leather goods.

www.gruppodani.it

What a joy it is to see all these blues on countless kinds of leather – calfskin, lambskin, goatskin, nubuck, exotic reptile skin…they all adopt blue with an enthusiasm and pertinence without ever distorting their own qualities.

This multifaceted color is at last daring to break free from the washed out tones that denim has trapped it in for too long, and renewing its ties with shades both intense or muted but never vulgar.

Berlonzi

Berlonzi's incredible talent transforms a simple foal skin into something exceptional.

Cut into small squares, painstakingly plucked and dyed, it is further embellished with plaited strips of multicoloured cowhide.

This spectacular work that is done entirely by hand is dazzling because of the prowess of its detail and creativity that breathe new life into tartan.

www.berlonzi.com.br